A used-car inspection checklist does one job: it turns what you can see on the lot into questions for an independent mechanic. The Federal Trade Commission’s advice is the backbone of this list: get an independent inspection before you buy, even if the seller calls the car certified, and ask for a written report that identifies the car by VIN and estimates any repairs (FTC, Buying a Used Car From a Dealer). History and recall checks supplement that inspection; they do not replace it. Here are the 15 things to check, organized from paperwork to the pedals.
Paperwork first
- Identify the car on the report. The VIN on the inspection report, the title and the car itself should all match (FTC).
- Read the Buyers Guide and the written terms. Dealers post a Buyers Guide on used cars; read whether the car is sold with a warranty or as-is, and get any promise in writing (FTC).
- Review the history records as supplementary evidence. A vehicle history report is useful, but the FTC is clear that it is not a substitute for an inspection, and the federal NMVTIS system covers five specific indicators rather than a full repair history (FTC; NMVTIS). Our vehicle history report guide covers what it can and cannot tell you.
- Check open recalls. Run the VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls; the lookup shows unrepaired recalls for covered manufacturers and has limits for older vehicles and very recent recalls, so treat a clean result as a check, not a clearance.
Walk around and under the hood
Items 5 through 14 follow the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s vehicle-check guidance (NHTSA), which is written for your own car but is exactly the walk-around a buyer should do in a Havasu summer.
- Tire condition and wear. Tread depth, uneven wear, cracking; uneven wear is a question about alignment or suspension for the mechanic.
- Tire inflation and the spare. Check against the specified pressure on the door-jamb label, and confirm the spare and tools are there.
- Exterior and interior lights. Headlights, brake lights, turn signals, emergency flashers and interior lights.
- Wipers. Blade condition and washer function.
- Air conditioning. Run it long enough to judge whether it actually cools; in this climate it is not a luxury item.
- Belts and hoses. Have them assessed for cracks, softness or wear.
- Cooling system. Condition and any sign of leaks.
- Fluids and leaks. Have the applicable fluids and any leaks assessed.
- Battery and charging. Have them checked; heat is hard on batteries.
- Floor-mat fit around the pedals. A mat that can slide into the pedals is a safety problem, not a detail.
Then the one that decides it
- The independent mechanic’s findings and written repair estimates. Everything above tells the mechanic where to look; the written report with the VIN and estimates is what you negotiate from, or walk away from (FTC).
These 15 headings organize source-backed checks into a buyer’s walk-around; they are not a certified or complete inspection protocol, and they do not replace a model-specific inspection by a professional.
How this works on our lot
An independent inspection, arranged and paid for by the buyer, is welcome on any car we are selling. We do not claim that every car has had each of these checks or a clean bill of health; ask the broker what is documented for the specific car, and have your mechanic confirm the rest.
Next step
See the classic cars in stock and bring this list; ask the broker what documentation is available for items 1 through 4 while you walk the car. Have a car to sell? We consign it with no fees: tell us what you have. Call (928) 453-8833 or text (928) 732-2281.
